Garçons

What would you do with a croissant, a coffee cup and a glass of water? The first thing that comes to mind would probably not be holding them aloft on a tray while hustling through the streets of Paris.

This, however, is what around 200 garçons, French waiters, did a few Sundays ago when the “course des garçons de cafe” was held after a thirteen year hiatus. The original race was held in 1914 and followed a five mile course. The waiters were attired in white jackets, bow ties, black pants and dress shoes. Their trays held bottles of French wine. In contrast, this year’s race was 1.2 miles, starting at Paris City Hall, going to Centre Pompidou and then back to City Hall. The participants wore aprons, and sneakers were allowed.

Crowds lined the sidewalks, cheering the participants along as they power walked through the twisting streets. No running is allowed in this historic race, and the trays cannot be carried with two hands. Minutes are deducted from the waiters’ race times for spillage and breakage.

Paris’ 15,000 cafes are an important part of the city’s cultural heritage. As the head of the restaurant trade group explains it, “A lot goes on in Paris cafes; love, friendship, business deals and revolutions.” Ann Hidalgo, Paris’ mayor, states, “The bistrot is where we go to meet people, where we go for our little coffee, our little drink, where we also go to argue, to love and embrace each other.” Note that she leaves out the “revolution” part.

The lucky winners of the waiters’ race receive medals, plus some things far more enjoyable…stays in four-star hotels and meals in highly starred restaurants.

I would love to be a spectator at this delightful event. I have long respected the hard and stressful work that all restaurant workers perform, often for low wages. And I know that I would be a disaster as a server. When I tried to balance a tray with a croissant, a coffee cup and glass of water, I only got a few meters when things got out of my control.

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